7-29-2025 10:26am

Ecco L'Estate! - Hang Loose

Christine Larkin Editor

SKYLARK'S ARTICLE OF THE WEEK - HANG LOOSE

I love surf culture. I grew up on the beach watching my Dad body surf and my boyfriend surf. It's exhilarating. Surf culture spans thousands of years. It's one of the most interesting cultures that has endured the test of time and is gaining popularity throughout generations.

Surf culture, deeply rooted in ancient Polynesian practices, evolved from a spiritual and social activity in Hawaii to a global phenomenon with distinct cultural expressions. Initially practiced by all social strata, surfing's connection to royalty and spirituality was later emphasized, then suppressed by missionaries. Rediscovered and popularized by figures like Duke Kahanamoku, surfing experienced a boom in California, blending with beach culture and eventually becoming a professional sport.

Early History (Pre-18th Century)

Ancient Origins: Surfing originated thousands of years ago in Peru and Polynesia, with evidence of reed-craft surfing found in Peru dating back 3,000-5,000 years.
Polynesian Arrival: Polynesians brought surfing to Hawaii around the 4th century.
Royal Sport: Surfing in Hawaii was a significant cultural practice, with ties to religion, social status, and even the spiritual realm. Chiefs had personal surf chants, and the art of "he'e nalu" (wave sliding) was practiced by all social classes.
European Contact: Captain Cook's arrival in 1778 marked the beginning of colonization and the disruption of Hawaiian culture, including surfing, which was viewed negatively by missionaries.

19th Century Decline and Revival

Missionary Influence: Missionaries discouraged surfing as a "heathen" practice, leading to its decline in many Polynesian communities.
Duke Kahanamoku: A Hawaiian Olympic swimmer and surfer, Duke Kahanamoku, revived surfing's popularity through demonstrations and became a global ambassador for the sport.

20th Century and Beyond

California's Rise: Surfing gained popularity in Southern California in the early 20th century, blending with the existing beach culture.
Technological Advancements: Innovations in surfboard materials (balsa, foam, fiberglass) made surfing more accessible.
Professionalization: The 1970s and 80s saw the rise of shortboards, professional competitions, and major surf brands, further solidifying surfing as a global sport.
Surf Travel and Culture: Surfing culture expanded globally in the late 1960s and 70s, with surfers exploring coastlines and establishing communities worldwide.
Today: Surfing has evolved into a complex culture with various expressions, from competitive sports to a lifestyle embraced by millions.

Surfing at Shinnecock Inlet and Ditch Planes

When I was in high school, my boyfriend and I and a group of friends would drive out to Shinnecock Inlet and sleep in our cars to catch the first wave at sunrise. It was a ritual throughout the summer. There were dangerous waves in the inlet, but that didn't stop anyone. It was a do or die situation!

Shinnecock Inlet offers some challenging wave surfing, particularly at the "Shinnecock East Break". This spot, located on the eastern side, is known for its powerful right-hand break, ideal for experienced surfers who can handle fast-moving waves and tricky currents. The inlet's conditions can be dynamic, so understanding the tides is crucial for safe and enjoyable surfing. Thank God, no one got hurt.

Ditch Planes is my favorite surf spot. It's in Montauk on Long Island and reminds me of Malibu in California. It's much smaller, but the essence is the same. After Hurricane Sandy in 2012, we took a ride out to Ditch. Surfers were everywhere, and so were the waves. There are lots of rocks at Ditch, so you have to be careful. This didn't stop anyone. I was amazed at their bravery and skill. Hang loose!

Surfing at Shinnecock Inlet

Surfing at Ditch Planes

Women Surfing

There are more women surfing today than ever before. Women surfing has a rich history, dating back centuries, and is experiencing a surge in popularity and recognition. My sister, Donna, surfs. From historical figures like Princess Keleanohoana'api'api to contemporary champions like Carissa Moore and Stephanie Gilmore, women have consistently pushed boundaries in the sport. Today, women represent a significant portion of the surfing population, and their performances in competitions and big wave events are captivating audiences.

Here's a little history of Women in Surfing

Ancient Roots: Surfing's origins are deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture, and women were integral to its practice from the beginning. Princess Keleanohoana'api'api, also known as Kalea, is one of the earliest recorded female surfers, rumored to have surpassed both men and women in skill.
17th Century and Beyond: Historical accounts from the 17th century and the late 1800s highlight women's active participation and often superior abilities compared to men in surfing.
20th and 21st Century Growth: In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, women's surfing gained further momentum, with iconic figures like Lisa Andersen and Layne Beachley emerging as global stars.

Modern Day Women's Surfing

Rising Stars: Today, women like Carissa Moore, Stephanie Gilmore, Caroline Marks, Caitlin Simmers, Molly Picklum, Bethany Hamilton, and Paige Alms are dominating the sport, showcasing incredible talent and athleticism.
Big Wave Dominance: Women are also making their mark in big wave surfing, with athletes like Paige Alms and Justine Dupont pushing the limits of what's possible.
Equal Pay and Recognition: The fight for equality has seen significant progress, with the introduction of equal pay in surfing contests since 2019.
Increasing Diversity: The surfing community is becoming more diverse, with a growing number of people of color and women participating in the sport.

The Future of Women's Surfing

Continued Growth: The popularity of women's surfing is expected to continue its upward trajectory, with more athletes joining the professional tours and pushing the boundaries of the sport.
Inspiring Future Generations: Role models like Carissa Moore, who was the first woman to win Olympic gold in surfing, are inspiring a new generation of female surfers.
A Force for Change: Surfing, as a sport, is increasingly seen as a powerful tool for women's empowerment and a platform for sharing impactful stories.

I am woman, watch me surf.

Big Wave Surfing

Big Wave surfing is another beast. It is a special branch of surfing that involves riding waves at least 20 feet high. It requires specialized equipment, like "guns" or tow-boards and advanced techniques. Surfers in this discipline prioritize performance and technique, similar to riding smaller, barreling waves, and often ride shorter boards with innovative fin designs. Big wave surfing is also associated with high levels of commitment and advancements in safety and rescue techniques.

Here's Some Key Aspects of Big Wave Surfing

Wave Size: A defining characteristic is the size of the waves, typically 20 feet or more.
Equipment: Surfers use specialized boards like "guns" (long, thick boards) or towboards (for towing into waves).
Technique: Riding big waves involves advanced paddling techniques, maneuvering through turbulent waters, and mastering the drop.
Commitment: Big wave surfing is known for its high level of commitment, with surfers pushing their limits and facing potential risks.
Safety: Advancements in rescue and safety efforts have made big wave surfing safer, but it still involves inherent risks.
Mental Game: Big wave surfing is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one, with surfers needing to manage anticipation, focus, and positive thinking.
Personal Challenge: Many surfers are driven by the personal challenge of riding big waves and pushing their boundaries.
World Records: Sebastian Steudtner, a German surfer, holds the current world record for the biggest wave ever surfed, a 93.73-foot wave at Nazaré, Portugal.
Top Spots: Nazaré in Portugal, Jaws/Peahi in Maui, and Mavericks in California are among the most famous big wave surfing locations.
Speed: Surfers can reach speeds of up to 40 mph (64 km/h) or more on massive waves.

And then there's the Mavericks. "Mavericks" most likely refers to the 2012 biographical drama film, Chasing Mavericks, which tells the story of surfer Jay Moriarity's quest to conquer the massive Mavericks surf break. It was directed by Curtis Hanson and Michael Apted, and stars Jonny Weston as Jay and Gerard Butler as his mentor, Frosty Hesson. The film explores themes of perseverance, mentorship, and the pursuit of a challenging dream. It's a very cool film.

Here's a More Detailed Breakdown of the film, Chasing Mavericks

Plot: The film follows 15-year-old Jay Moriarity as he discovers the legendary Mavericks surf break and seeks out Frosty Hesson, a local legend, to train him.
Real-life Inspiration: The movie is based on the true story of Jay Moriarity, a young surfer who gained fame for his skill and determination in tackling the dangerous Mavericks waves.
Themes: Chasing Mavericks highlights the importance of overcoming fear, the power of mentorship, and the drive to achieve seemingly impossible goals.
Critical Reception: While some critics found the film's storyline predictable, it was generally praised for its exciting aerial scenes, strong performances (especially by Weston and Butler), and the emotional impact of Jay's story.

The Paddle Out

The paddle-out is a spiritual symbol of surf culture. It's a traditional Hawaiian tribute to the life and legacy of people who passed away. In most cases, the paddle-out is a floating memorial held in the ocean, a few yards from the shore, where surfers and other water sports participants honor someone they cherished. Paddlers often carry flowers and Hawaiian leis on top of their boards and in their teeth to the place where they will celebrate someone's life. As they arrive at the selected location, surfers join hands, form a human circle, say a few words, chant, and splash the water. The circle aims to represent the way the ocean brings people together. In some cases, family and friends of the honoree pour their ashes in the water. There are also paddle-outs held to protest against the construction of buildings and landmarks, the destruction of nearby parks and marine life, oil spills, offshore drilling, and water pollution.

I went to my first and only paddle out a few years ago when fireman, lifeguard, and surfer, Casey Skudin, passed away in an unrelated accident. I did not know Casey, but his death touched me so deeply, and I felt I had to go. He was a fireman in Rockaway just like my uncles were. I felt a kindred connection. I'm so glad I went. It was such a sacred experience. I still have a rose from that day.

Here's the link to an article I wrote about Casey Skudin's paddle out:

https://skylarklive.town.news/g/bay-shore-ny/n/85681/humble-hero-honore…

A Beach Boy

Brian Wilson was the ultimate California beach boy. Co-founder of the band, The Beach Boys, he blended beach culture with surf culture in song. He wrote countless mega-hits including Surfer Girl, Surfing U.S.A. and Surfin' Safari, just to name a few. He passed away on June 11, 2025. He was the ultimate Surfer Dude.

Here's the link to Brian Wilson's paddle out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkADjMYMbIQ

The Language of Surf Culture

The "shaka" or "hang loose" sign, a hand gesture with the thumb and pinky finger extended while the other fingers are curled, is a common symbol in surf culture and is often associated with Hawaii. It's used as a friendly greeting, a way to say "thank you," "take it easy," or express general positive vibes. The gesture is thought to have originated in Hawaii and has been adopted by surfers worldwide as a way to communicate with each other and express their connection to the surfing community. Here's a more detailed look at the shaka and its connection to surf culture:

Origins in Hawaii: The shaka is deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture, with some stories attributing its origin to Hamana Kalili, who lost his middle fingers on a sugar mill train and used the gesture to signal the all-clear.
Adoption by Surfers: Surfers in the 1960s and 70s adopted the shaka as a way to identify themselves and connect with other surfers, often using it to convey a sense of laid-back friendliness and shared passion for surfing, according to Ward Village.
Global Symbol: The shaka has since spread globally with surfers, becoming a widely recognized symbol of surf culture and a way to express positive vibes, a sense of community, and the "hang loose" attitude associated with the lifestyle.
Beyond Surfing: While deeply connected to surfing, the shaka has also found its way into other areas, such as scuba diving and even broader cultural contexts, where it often signifies a friendly and relaxed approach.
Aloha Spirit: In Hawaii, the shaka also represents the "aloha spirit," embodying a sense of love, compassion, and mutual respect, according to the National Conference of State Legislatures.

The Woodie

What would surf culture be without a signature car. Born in 1929, the wooden wagons gained popularity in the 1960s among California surfers, especially in Huntington Beach.

A woodie, (or a woodie wagon) is a wood-bodied automobile, that became a popular type of station wagon the bodywork of which is constructed of wood or is styled to resemble wood elements. The appearance of polished wood gave a resemblance to fine wooden furniture and on many occasions the wood theme continued to the dashboard and inner door panels including the rear tailgate.

The Beach Boys along with Jan and Dean only fueled the Woodie craze with lines like, “We’re loadin’ up our Woodie with our boards inside and headin’ out singin’ our song”, and “I bought a ’30 Ford wagon, and we call it a Woodie. Surf City, here we come.” These became iconic songs.

Rolling through Huntington Beach over the decades, Woodies were symbolic of the rich surf heritage and lifestyle. You might spot one parked proudly outside a local event, or entire rows of these iconic beauties lined up at an annual Woodie car show.

My cousin, Jimmy DiResta, is building a Woodie out of an old Cadillac. Take a look.

When I was a teenager, Woodie's were a fairly common site. I don't see them much anymore, but every now and then, one is rolling through town. The surf culture lives on. Every beach I go to, there are new surfers riding waves big and small. It's a unique culture that captures the imagination of every generation. May it never get old. Surf's up, dude! Load up the Woodie.

Peace and Love,

Skylark

At 60 and Beyond, surfing can be a great way to stay active in life. Be careful!

Support your local news!

SKYLARK'S INSPIRATIONAL QUOTE OF THE WEEK

SKYLARK'S PRAYER OF THE WEEK

Dear God,

Please protect all surfers in big and small waves everywhere. Amen.

SKYLARK'S HIGHLIGHT OF THE WEEK

The highlight of the week was attending a drum circle on the beach Monday evening. There was a warm breeze, the sky was like sherbet, and the sunset was as gorgeous as ever. It was a perfect summer night.

SKYLARK'S PICK OF THE WEEK

My pick of the week is the Sayville Summerfest 2025. Check out this three day event if you can. It's so much fun.

Support your local news!

SKYLARK'S QUESTION OF THE WEEK

Do you enjoy surf culture? Tell me about an experience you've had.

Please put your answer in the comment section below. I'd love to hear from you.

SKYLARK'S ITALIAN PHRASE OF THE WEEK

English: Hang loose!

Italian: Rilassati!

SKYLARK'S SONG OF THE WEEK - THE BEACH BOYS GREATEST HITS

ABOUT MY BRAND, SKYLARK LIVE

My brand, Skylark Live, began when I turned 60 and noticed a profound shift. I wanted to talk about it and share what I was experiencing with the hope of helping other women as well. My brand consists of a weekly newsletter and a monthly vlog designed to motivate and inspire women over 60 to thrive in mature aging through knowledge and self-awareness. Andiamo! Let's go!

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Thank you for your love and support. Apprezza la giornata. Cherish the day. Saluti!